Neumayer Passage and Arrival at Palmer

Turning into the Neumayer Passage marked the dive into the ice. The Gerlache was snowy, but this was ice everywhere. The Neumayer was more intimate, too. The mountains, hills, rocks were much closer. The boat pilots had to dodge the big icebergs and motor slowly through the small ones for fear of clogging up the engine cooling intakes.

I was thrilled. Never have I seen landscape so beautiful. I suppose the complete lack of plants accounts for part of the starkness. I didn't know where to look, big picture or small.

I'm in love with ice. For the glass artist, nature is throwing away piles of sculptures, just casting them off like nothing! I have learned so much about the structure, form, interior, and texture in just a few days. I must admit, though, that the blue color of the ice is more mysterious than ever.

















And finally. A starboard turn around Anvers Island and we arrive at Arthur harbor and Palmer Station in brilliant sun. From the pictures and the description it seemed like a lonely outpost of 45 souls. But even though its way away from all other civilization, this is a bustling city of 45 people, with everything to support research and make the inhabitants happy.

Art Quinn and I are very happy to be here.